Lucky me, there is an ethernet connection here at the hotel in Hebron, which means I get to give my review of the Palestine Independence Day trip today!
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I read an article once hypothesizing that hummous is the key to Middle East peace, one of the commonalities that could bring people together. Falafel and tabbouleh may also qualify, as might argileh (aka shisha, hubbly bubbly).
Add hot springs to the mix. Everyone likes a good soaking in hot mineral water.
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We started the day a bit later than planned, thanks in part to the leisurely pace that people seem to prefer here, and partially because we were trying to figure out how to get one of our teachers onto the bus. She is the wife of a diplomat living in East Jerusalem, and the security team was not keen to have her meet the bus at a checkpoint or to drive her to Ramallah on a day that could inspire resistance activity. She eventually got into Ramallah at around 8, and off we went.
It was interesting to spend Palestine Independence Day in Hamat Gader and Akko, in what most Palestinians would call Greater Palestine and what the Israelis certainly consider their turf. It was a peaceful and relaxing day...other than the enthusiastic singing in the back of the bus as we traveled north along the border road, flying past the farms beyond the Dead Sea, along the Jordanian border, and into the mountainous area where the Golan Heights intersects with Syria & Jordan.
We arrived at Hamat Gader at around 11, and spent about 4 hours enjoying the springs, visiting the little zoo, and getting massages. Perfect for the week after parent-teacher conferences!
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It was interesting for me to observe both Israelis and Palestinians enjoying the baths. Most Israelis and Palestinians have no contact with each other, and their ideas about the other are shaped by their media and limited personal experiences. It was interesting not because anything happened, but because nothing happened. It was peaceful, and everyone just had a good time. For the most part, people stayed with their own friends, and my guess is that most of the Israelis just thought that my colleagues were Israeli Arabs, not Palestinians living in Ramallah, but to me, it was a very simple confirmation of how normal people are when they're not trying to prove their political agenda is right and that the "other" is evil.
It was also interesting for me to be there as an American. Occasionally people spoke to me in Hebrew, and when I said that I didn't speak Hebrew, I'm from the U.S., the follow-up question was: are you a tourist? I felt uncomfortable disclosing that I live in the West Bank, so I just said that I was visiting the country and staying near Jerusalem, and my friends wanted to spend the day at the springs so we took a little day trip. All true, but omitting the fact that I work and live in Ramallah. I'm not sure what they would have said, but I didn't want to get into a political discussion.
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I know that it is much more complicated than just getting people together to realize that they are all human beings with more in common than differences, and that there are political realities and justice issues to be dealt with, but the separation of the people contributes greatly to sustaining the problem.
Israelis too often forget about Palestinians behind the wall and only think of them when they are fearful from attacks. Palestinians seldom enjoy the privileges that Israelis take for granted.
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My most memorable moments of the day were simple ones:
Realizing that my co-worker who normally wears a hijab has caramel highlights in her brown hair, and traded the hijab for the day to wear a COCKS baseball cap
Singing on the bus
Watching my co-workers throwing stones into the Sea of Galilee
The lighting up of the faces of my co-workers as they sat down beside the Mediterranean Sea for dinner in Akko, and how everyone wanted to sit right beside the water
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We rolled into Ramallah at about 9 PM, and although we were tired from the day and ready to be home, crossing the checkpoint at Qalandia and passing through the separation wall was a sad reality check. Back to the movement restrictions, back to checkpoints, back to the daily grind of life under occupation. People will keep on keeping on, but it's a bitter irony to end Palestine Independence Day with the reminder that you live in a cage.
Showing posts with label Palestine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Palestine. Show all posts
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Space Heaters and Candle Light
Winter is arriving in Ramallah. It has rained twice so far, gentle, misting rains...probably a quarter inch or so at most, and the rain soaks quickly into the ground. It is nearly pitch black at 5:30 PM now, and the weather is becoming cool. The high temperature during the day is about 65 degrees and breezy, and at night it dips to around 45 or 50. Later in the winter, they say it may snow. Usually it doesn't stick around for long.
Those temperatures don't sound too bad, but buildings here are usually made of stone with high ceilings. They are poorly insulated, and seldom have central heating. The temperature inside often feels about the same as outside, which is quite a bit chillier than the average American is accustomed to keeping their homes and offices.
Last night, I finally broke down to use a couple space heaters to heat the apartment. The power went out twice--once when I turned on the hot plate to make dinner, and again when I turned it on to make Arabic coffee. Too many heat generating appliances, I suppose. I will need to invest in a flashlight soon, although I did manage to find the fusebox via candle light.
The glow of the candles and space heaters creates a soothing ambiance, but will likely lead me to become an early to bed, early to rise person this winter!
Those temperatures don't sound too bad, but buildings here are usually made of stone with high ceilings. They are poorly insulated, and seldom have central heating. The temperature inside often feels about the same as outside, which is quite a bit chillier than the average American is accustomed to keeping their homes and offices.
Last night, I finally broke down to use a couple space heaters to heat the apartment. The power went out twice--once when I turned on the hot plate to make dinner, and again when I turned it on to make Arabic coffee. Too many heat generating appliances, I suppose. I will need to invest in a flashlight soon, although I did manage to find the fusebox via candle light.
The glow of the candles and space heaters creates a soothing ambiance, but will likely lead me to become an early to bed, early to rise person this winter!
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Right to Enter
One of the many challenges of the occupation is the right to enter the West Bank and Gaza. Due to the fact that the PA is not a sovereign entity and the borders of the West Bank and Gaza are controlled by Israel, anyone who wishes to enter the West Bank or Gaza must obtain a visa from Israel.
Long term work visas in the occupied territories are difficult to come by...usually you have to work for a governmental organization like USAID to get one. Getting a Palestinian ID for permanent residence is even harder (if that's what you want). Spouses of Palestinians can usually (but not always) get a visa to stay, but still have to deal with the uncertainty of not knowing whether the visa will be renewed. (Many foreign passport holders don't want to give up their passport, but there are families that have made the commitment to living in Palestine who would like that option.)
Most foreign passport holders come on a tourist visa, which, depending on the point of entry and the mood of the person stamping your passport, can be as long as three months. However, many people are denied entry or are only given shorter visas (anywhere from a week or a month). When this happens, the result is disruption and separation. Often the people who are denied entry are long-term volunteers who are doing work in Palestinian civil society organizations or NGOs, or are Palestinians who hold foreign passports but want to contribute to Palestinian society by establishing businesses. They also often have family members in Palestine, and want to raise their families in Palestine with the support of a strong family community.
Denying these people the right to enter undermines the development of a strong Palestinian society. If a strong Palestinian society is likely to be more stable, secure and peaceful, wouldn't you think that it would be in the best interests of Israel to not only grant visas to the West Bank and Gaza--but to encourage them? It's hardly effective to deny them if your goal is peaceful coexistence alongside a viable Palestinian state...which raise's the question: What is Israel's reason for denying these visas and permits? If the problem is "abuse of tourist visas", then why not make it easier to get a work visa or temporary residence visa?
Recently, two of my friends have had visa problems. One was denied entry entirely at Ben Gurion, in spite of the fact that Israel normally reciprocates with the U.S., the other went to visit relatives after a death in the family and came back to receive only a one month stamp. The first one is now back in the U.S., the latter is now spending her time trying to get as much organized as possible before her visa expires, while also trying to figure out what the possibilities are of getting a visa extension or a long-term visa.
Losing them is/would be a loss for Palestine...and they are just two of many.
To learn more, visit Campaign for the Right of Entry/Re-Entry to the Occupied Palestinian Territory.
Long term work visas in the occupied territories are difficult to come by...usually you have to work for a governmental organization like USAID to get one. Getting a Palestinian ID for permanent residence is even harder (if that's what you want). Spouses of Palestinians can usually (but not always) get a visa to stay, but still have to deal with the uncertainty of not knowing whether the visa will be renewed. (Many foreign passport holders don't want to give up their passport, but there are families that have made the commitment to living in Palestine who would like that option.)
Most foreign passport holders come on a tourist visa, which, depending on the point of entry and the mood of the person stamping your passport, can be as long as three months. However, many people are denied entry or are only given shorter visas (anywhere from a week or a month). When this happens, the result is disruption and separation. Often the people who are denied entry are long-term volunteers who are doing work in Palestinian civil society organizations or NGOs, or are Palestinians who hold foreign passports but want to contribute to Palestinian society by establishing businesses. They also often have family members in Palestine, and want to raise their families in Palestine with the support of a strong family community.
Denying these people the right to enter undermines the development of a strong Palestinian society. If a strong Palestinian society is likely to be more stable, secure and peaceful, wouldn't you think that it would be in the best interests of Israel to not only grant visas to the West Bank and Gaza--but to encourage them? It's hardly effective to deny them if your goal is peaceful coexistence alongside a viable Palestinian state...which raise's the question: What is Israel's reason for denying these visas and permits? If the problem is "abuse of tourist visas", then why not make it easier to get a work visa or temporary residence visa?
Recently, two of my friends have had visa problems. One was denied entry entirely at Ben Gurion, in spite of the fact that Israel normally reciprocates with the U.S., the other went to visit relatives after a death in the family and came back to receive only a one month stamp. The first one is now back in the U.S., the latter is now spending her time trying to get as much organized as possible before her visa expires, while also trying to figure out what the possibilities are of getting a visa extension or a long-term visa.
Losing them is/would be a loss for Palestine...and they are just two of many.
To learn more, visit Campaign for the Right of Entry/Re-Entry to the Occupied Palestinian Territory.
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
TOEFL and Other Stories
When I found out that I was moving to Ramallah, I joined the Palestine network on FaceBook. It seemed like the logical pro-active step of someone moving 6,000 miles away from home to a place where I knew nobody: join a social network.
Shortly thereafter, I started getting Friend Requests from random Palestinians, some of which I accepted. I began the process of "getting to know" them via e-mail and the inane little applications that it offers, and sometimes even talking with people via Skype.
One particular Facebook friend was a guy from Gaza. He lives in Deir al Balah (in the central part of the Gaza Strip) in a typical Gazan home--a multi-family house--with his parents, brothers and sisters, and a few uncles and their families, and he attends the Islamic University of Gaza, where he studies computer science and education.
His family has, up until now, been more fortunate than many. They've had food (although meat is less common than it used to be), and between working odd jobs and borrowing money, he has managed to scrape together the money needed to keep him in school so that he can complete his studies in December. He dreams of going to a graduate school in Europe or the U.S. so that he cam get a MS in computer science and find a good job so that he can get married and start a family, and support his extended family.
Over the few months that I've e-mailed and spoken with him, the situation has deteriorated rapidly.
The summertime was difficult because of frequent power outages, which result in food spoilage and high levels of discomfort, plus the possibility for medical catastrophe if someone required electrical equipment for treatment. The plan to cut off the fuel as well means no cooking and no heat in the winter.
The computer store where my friend used to work no longer can get parts to do repairs, and the computer classes that he used to teach at a local community center have stopped--nobody can afford to pay for classes when more important things - food, bottled water, clothes - take precedence. The center can't afford to donate the lessons because they need to pay rent, and my friend can't afford to donate time because he needs to pay his tuition. Of course, there aren't really any jobs in Gaza any more--the economy is at a standstill because of the border closures. No goods come in. No goods go out.
Stress levels are, of course, through the roof, which exacerbates all kinds of health problems - and creates new ones. Several of my friends' family members have been in the hospital with stroke or other heart/blood pressure related problems, and there is little that the hospitals can do. Medical supplies are allowed into Gaza for now, but pills do little to help when there are Air Force jets flying overhead, and people are traumatized by every sonic boom.
My friend went to Amideast to find out about taking the TOEFL and GRE in order to prepare for graduate school applications, and found out that the exams and prep materials would cost around $400, which in Gaza, may as well be $4,000 or $4 Million. It's too much. And in Gaza, the equation might look like the following: no exam = no continuation of studies = no career opportunities abroad = no future = no hope.
So, can someone tell me again how this isolation of Gaza prevents terror? Because it seems like my friend, and the 1.5 million other people living there, are living in a pressure cooker...and the more people suffer, the more they want to resist. I consider it an act of extreme restraint that 1.5 million people haven't started marching towards the checkpoints to knock them down with handtools.
The isolation of Gaza does not compel the people to give up the fight, and when you have nothing to lose, it's easy to imagine doing something radical.
Shortly thereafter, I started getting Friend Requests from random Palestinians, some of which I accepted. I began the process of "getting to know" them via e-mail and the inane little applications that it offers, and sometimes even talking with people via Skype.
One particular Facebook friend was a guy from Gaza. He lives in Deir al Balah (in the central part of the Gaza Strip) in a typical Gazan home--a multi-family house--with his parents, brothers and sisters, and a few uncles and their families, and he attends the Islamic University of Gaza, where he studies computer science and education.
His family has, up until now, been more fortunate than many. They've had food (although meat is less common than it used to be), and between working odd jobs and borrowing money, he has managed to scrape together the money needed to keep him in school so that he can complete his studies in December. He dreams of going to a graduate school in Europe or the U.S. so that he cam get a MS in computer science and find a good job so that he can get married and start a family, and support his extended family.
Over the few months that I've e-mailed and spoken with him, the situation has deteriorated rapidly.
The summertime was difficult because of frequent power outages, which result in food spoilage and high levels of discomfort, plus the possibility for medical catastrophe if someone required electrical equipment for treatment. The plan to cut off the fuel as well means no cooking and no heat in the winter.
The computer store where my friend used to work no longer can get parts to do repairs, and the computer classes that he used to teach at a local community center have stopped--nobody can afford to pay for classes when more important things - food, bottled water, clothes - take precedence. The center can't afford to donate the lessons because they need to pay rent, and my friend can't afford to donate time because he needs to pay his tuition. Of course, there aren't really any jobs in Gaza any more--the economy is at a standstill because of the border closures. No goods come in. No goods go out.
Stress levels are, of course, through the roof, which exacerbates all kinds of health problems - and creates new ones. Several of my friends' family members have been in the hospital with stroke or other heart/blood pressure related problems, and there is little that the hospitals can do. Medical supplies are allowed into Gaza for now, but pills do little to help when there are Air Force jets flying overhead, and people are traumatized by every sonic boom.
My friend went to Amideast to find out about taking the TOEFL and GRE in order to prepare for graduate school applications, and found out that the exams and prep materials would cost around $400, which in Gaza, may as well be $4,000 or $4 Million. It's too much. And in Gaza, the equation might look like the following: no exam = no continuation of studies = no career opportunities abroad = no future = no hope.
So, can someone tell me again how this isolation of Gaza prevents terror? Because it seems like my friend, and the 1.5 million other people living there, are living in a pressure cooker...and the more people suffer, the more they want to resist. I consider it an act of extreme restraint that 1.5 million people haven't started marching towards the checkpoints to knock them down with handtools.
The isolation of Gaza does not compel the people to give up the fight, and when you have nothing to lose, it's easy to imagine doing something radical.
Friday, August 31, 2007
Weyn a Ramallah
Sometimes in Ramallah it is hard to remember that there is an occupation. It is felt economically, at checkpoints and in travel restriction, but there are not many miltary incursions here or settlers living within the city. Some people describe it as being "in a bubble", particularly compared to some of the other cities in the West Bank, and it is nothing compared to Gaza. Most people, like those elsewhere, are focused on living their lives as best they can, and in Ramallah, "The Bride of Palestine" there is much to enjoy.
Here's my first slideshow on Ramallah, with the traditional song "Weyn a Ramallah" in the background. I couldn't find a full-length version, so please pardon the 30 second snippet!
The photos are from all over town: the marketplace (just a block or so from where I live), Manara Square and the Clocktower (about 2 or 3 blocks away), the surrounding shops, and some views of the rest of the city. These shots were taken by my friend Sa'ed (thanks, Sa'ed!)--he's got a better eye than I do!
The interior/exterior shots at the beginning are home sweet home for me; I have the great privilege of staying there while the director of the school and her family are in the U.S. There is a cute little studio attached to the house, where I will stay when they are back in Ramallah, but right now (for obvious reasons), I am spending most of my time in the main house.
The slideshow of my trip to Bethlehem will be forthcoming. If you prefer to see higher quality still photographs, visit my Weyn A Ramallah-August 2007 gallery at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/10390939@N03/sets/72157601785446581/
If you want prints, let me know and I'll send you a higher resolution version.
Otherwise, enjoy the YouTube version!
Here's my first slideshow on Ramallah, with the traditional song "Weyn a Ramallah" in the background. I couldn't find a full-length version, so please pardon the 30 second snippet!
The photos are from all over town: the marketplace (just a block or so from where I live), Manara Square and the Clocktower (about 2 or 3 blocks away), the surrounding shops, and some views of the rest of the city. These shots were taken by my friend Sa'ed (thanks, Sa'ed!)--he's got a better eye than I do!
The interior/exterior shots at the beginning are home sweet home for me; I have the great privilege of staying there while the director of the school and her family are in the U.S. There is a cute little studio attached to the house, where I will stay when they are back in Ramallah, but right now (for obvious reasons), I am spending most of my time in the main house.
The slideshow of my trip to Bethlehem will be forthcoming. If you prefer to see higher quality still photographs, visit my Weyn A Ramallah-August 2007 gallery at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/10390939@N03/sets/72157601785446581/
If you want prints, let me know and I'll send you a higher resolution version.
Otherwise, enjoy the YouTube version!
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